15 West 56th Street
New York, NY 10019
Contact | 212.757.5878
I wanted to like it. Ma Peche was supposed to be the long-awaited savior to Midtown’s desolate brunch scene. But whether it’s the curse of the locale or a concept that has veered too far from Chang’s core, you’ll find a well-intentioned menu gone wrong.
Creme fraiche and everything spice are doused on already salty smoked salmon in the eggs benedict dish. Chang’s staff always do eggs right, so no complaints there, except you can barely enjoy it underneath all the sauce and seasoning.
The avocado toast was particularly uninspiring, a menu item that seems placed there merely to follow a recent trend, with a sloppy twist thrown into it. The Asian fusion element of green papaya salad was a weak addition, seemingly force-fitted without consideration to taste and texture.
The salad weighs down on the toast, flattening what was first served as a thick slice and making the bread soggy. The salad itself paired oddly with the small dollop of avocado that was already browning for aerification.
It was bad, but still, not as disappointing as the brisket with eggs because they’re the two things he does so superbly everywhere else. Yet, the packed brisket is dry, salty and chewy, the eggs lack their usual Chang-hallmark translucency, all on top of stale biscuits.
My hunch is that this lapse is isolated to the brunch time experience. The masterful way in which the Momofuku line of restaurants prepares its foods would suggest dinner at Ma Peche could be entirely different. But when it comes to midday meals in Midtown, best stay relegated to a bagel or breakfast sandwich.