1036 Washington Street
Hoboken, New Jersey 07030
Contact | 201.963.3333
Score one for Hoboken’s hip factor, though not so much for its diversity. Sorellina, a charming Italian restaurant, recently opened on Washington and 11th Street, replacing Helmers, its German predecessor of nearly eight decades.
It’s not that Hoboken needs another Italian joint, but what Sorellina takes away from the town’s melange, it gives back in heartfelt food.
Jay, Parker and I caught the tail end of brunch service recently, and the three dishes we tried showcased the roughness and warmth of home-style cooking.
The menu is simple — a couple egg dishes, a couple sandwiches and a few pasta entrees for a heartier meal. Jay insisted we couldn’t go into an Italian restaurant without trying pasta, which became a great call once the winter squash mezzaluna showed up sizzling in brown butter and crackling hazelnuts. These pillows packed with winter squash ooze and melt in your mouth without much work.
My baked uovo was classically prepared. Grilled bread to dip in the bubbling pool of eggs baked in marinara sauce. Jay went the sandwich route, which was the most unique entree that day — a fried chicken salad sandwich on homemade biscuits. The chicken bits in the salad were crisp and the freshly tossed salad.
Hoboken has a long way to go in terms of dining to catch up with Manhattan and Brooklyn. And though losing Helmers is unfortunate, Sorellina’s is a step in the right direction and fends off the likes of a Starbucks or Subway from dominating Washington Street.