You can’t miss it, taking up a wide storefront on 7th Avenue. The expanded menu still offers his classic DKA pastry (and prudently no cronuts to keep the mob away) , and a whole new set of lab-creation-like sweet and savory bites.
Our 11 am Sunday visit came with no line and most, but not all, tables taken. (Note that the burrata soft-serve isn’t available until noon.)
One of the best parts about the Kitchen is away from its food. The setup is a big improvement from his Soho bakery, which is a bit of an annoyance with its narrow walkway. Here, OM works much more smoothly, even though the theater-style seating inside isn’t the most comfortable. The outdoor area in front is redeeming, though.
So the food. The matcha beignets have probably drawn the most attention. They’re six bit-sized beignets blanketed in a slightly sweet matcha powder. It’s hard to go wrong with beignets, but the matcha does bring them up a notch. Make sure to get these fast because letting them sit can turn those pillowy fritters into soggy balls of grease.
The egg-clipse is visually striking. The brioche is turned black with squid ink, topped with velvety white mashed potatoes, enveloping spoonfuls of mushroom bechamel and two egg yolks, coated in shaved cheese.
Perhaps a reflection of the way Ansel approaches cooking, this is really a test kitchen. The menu’s peppered with descriptors like beer-soaked, extra fluff, sage-smoked, which begs to be tried and raises hopes that it’ll constantly evolve with new creations.