Kin Shop


There aren’t many reasons to take time exploring Thai cuisine when it seems like Manhattan has perfected pad thais and drunk man noodles into near-fast-food form. But while its dishes aren’t out of this world, my sis’s choice in Kin Shop for a quiet birthday dinner offered a special blend of familiarity and experimentation.

The atmosphere that Sunday night was soothing — a stark contrast to the intensely dynamic flavors that come with each of Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle’s dishes. Kin is nothing like his Italian conquest — Perilla — which is contrastingly delicate and restrained.

Take the roasted half-open bone marrow. It’s not your everyday Thai dish, but the traditional flavors are there once you get over the juicy marrow that comes with every scoop. It reminded me of the one at Double Crown.

That’s the highlight of the meal, though, since Jay’s enormous serving of braised beef and my spicy flat noodles offered good punch, but nothing else to really elevate them to another level.

I will say though that Kin’s dessert selection has a really pleasant simplicity to it. I went into it not expecting much based on some reviews I had read. Sure these aren’t the fancy shmancy concoctions you find at most sit-down restaurants these days. But the flavors are fresh, succinct and very-much there. We shared the Thai iced-tea and Thai coffee-chocolate ice cream — each delightfully refreshing and surprisingly not more prevalant across Thai venues.

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