Some have told me I’m too lenient in my reviews, but I tell it how I see it because the point is to try to lay out the vibe, the quality, the taste – the nuances new visitors can’t get by simply looking at the menu. So here’s me being honest.
Tom Colicchio’s ‘wichcraft was a fad and now it’s done. Playing off it’s selection of gourmet sandwiches, it expanded too fast and overdid itself. Sure every item on their menu is playful and creative, but look directly to the right – way overpriced. Take a bite of its handiwork – all bark, no bite.
My Citi buddies and I used to visit their Greenwich location at 3 pm each weekday, but only for their coffee happy hour special. And considering its prime location, directly across the street from a building filled with Wall Street bankers and traders, its business still visibly trailed other Tribeca eateries. And sadly, the general sentiment was (at least in my group) was that it’s way too pricey.
It’s a different story when the food’s actually good. But since my interning days at Citi in 2005, ‘wichcraft’s quality has dramatically deteriorated. Take the slow-roast pork sandwich. The marinated red cabbage and jalapeno sound great, until it comes out oversalted. Can’t go wrong with roasted pulled pork? Then you see it dry, clumpy, tasteless. Warm ciabatta roles are usually comforting. Well until it’s grilled to crisp up hard as a rock, where it hurts to bite down.
Several other items, from the soup to cream cookies, sandwiches to greek yogurt, are just uncomfortably heavy. The name of the game here is butter – thinking that butter makes everything better. But instead of boosting all the artistic flavors that could have been, it masks, almost like an attempt to disguise, the haphazard construction of its food.
There are way too many genuine, remarkable places in this city to fall for this gimmick.